Independent Days

Pictures:
Kanchan and Ayutthaya
http://drake.facebook.com/album.php?aid=25469&l=109f3&id=512610984
Ayutthaya and Sai Yok National Park
http://drake.facebook.com/album.php?aid=25470&l=ae6d8&id=512610984
Sai Yok and Sangkhlaburi
http://drake.facebook.com/album.php?aid=25471&l=ff964&id=512610984

I am safely back in BKK, Mom is here and sleeping, and now is the time were a make a dent in everything I've been doing in the past week. I'll try to make it short but thorough so we'll see how it goes. All in all....AMAZING TIME! I don't think I would have come back if I was coming back for Mom and Dan.
Day 1 9-26
Thoughts on the way to BKK
-The loud and overpowering Thai music on the bus rides really get tiring. But it probably wouldn't be a bus ride without it. Hearing loss might be a huge reminder of Thailand when I'm older. It amazes me that the Thais sleep through it all. I only slept 5 hours last night and I will still just be able to doze for a few short naps.
-I wonder if Thais think it's weird that all their international movies are dubbed in Thai. I know most of the movies would require subtitles but it seems annoying for me and them that every movie is dubbed. And the buses always show violent American movies! No wonder people think the U.S. is a violent culture. Yes, some movies are violent but other are not and those never seem to be popular here
-I think my definition of nice is chaning. A nice sidewalk would have just a few big open spaces of dirt. A nice building has AC. A nice bus has AC and I get my own seat. Water for the bus ride? Fabulous!
-Got to go to the Thailand Open which was my first live tennis experience. We thought we were seeing Andy Roddick but I guess he canceled--along with the other players I had heard of. I'm not convinced that they were ever actually coming! Maybe they just put their names on posters, got paid some good money, and then "got injured". Seems fishy that it happened to 3 out of the 4 men on the posters. Oh, and I have been craving a sandwich so I ate at Subway which I imagined would taste amazing....and I was thoroughly disappointed. Do I even like Western food anymore? It tastes so blah to me! The food I miss ends up being less than spectacular and I just want some rice....AAAAHH
Day 2
To Kanchanaburi (Kanchan)
I am staying at this cheap and beautiful guesthouse that is a very affordable B70 a night ($2!). It a room with a fan, shared bathroom, but overlooks the Mae Nam Kwai (Kwai River) and has an amazing garden area to just sit a relax. A beautiful spot for breakfast as the sun rises up and I look out at the river and the distant green mountains. So nice. Lots of backpackers and I think most are Eurpoean as I haven't heard much English spoken.
I've been using my Thai a lot already. It's easier to use it here because a) they speak better English so they can meet me halfway sometimes b) they don't startlaughing as soon as I try! I think using Thai in the really touristy places really helps me set myself apart and I think I get better deals and find out more information. It'snice fo rme to be forected to practice (forced because there's no one else and I want to be speaking Thai) and it makes me want to study more.
Kanchan is a city of about 60,000 people and was made famous by the movie "Bridge Over the River Kwai". It seems like there is the touristy section of the city but then the typical Thai city. They city reminds me of Nan but it's bigger and way more tourists. There are mountains in the distance and National Parks less than 60KM away--and only 2 hours from BKK. Today I walked to the Bridge which made me see more of the city. It was nice to walk and take it all in as the other farangs were taking taxis over to it (my mother taught me well!). The bridge was a bridge and it's just a replication of the real one as it was blown up - just like in the movie. It's really just a big tourist attraction so for me it was much nicer to walk there than once I actually got there. Sometimes the people who I am pretty sure were Americans were embarrassing. I think part of travelling to a country is to adapt their culture but I know not everyone thinks like that. It's just odd to see it and be somewhere in the middle.
I'm trying to figure out what to do for the week. Things I'm thinking about doing: motorbike to the national park and stay overnight, cooking class, finally get a Thai massage, kayaking down the river, Burma? unlikely with the political protests getting more serious. Killing monks is so unheard of in a Buddhist country-I don't know what to think. But maybe to the border town that has many Burmese refugess so I'd at least get a feel for the country, bicycling, all the historical WWII sites and surely more. Tomorrow I need to start collecting information so I know what there is to do.
I've been asked two different times by Thais if I am travelling alone and where I am staying. I had to start lying because it's just uncomfortable for me even though I really do think they are just being nice. You never know but it's hard for me to imagine something bad happening in Thailand. But I am starting to leave notes in my room each time I leave, just in case.
Tonight I went for a run around a soccer field and then joined in on the aerobics. And the aerobics kicked my butt! I think I am going to head to bed early tonight so I can rest my poor muscles. But then I checked out this place with live music and oh, it's been far too long. I miss concerts! Even though it was in Thai it was still great. And the English remakes are possibly worse--I mean, when was the last time you heard "Achy Breaky Heart"? With a Thai accent?
Day 3
These Birks were made for walking
So I saw a veggie restaurant near the bus station and I am determined to find it today. So I set off walking in the right direction, ready to just be lost in Kanchan for the day. I found some amazing viewpoints along the river and got to see the real Kanchan. Much like other Thai cities. It's like KK, but with tourists and a river and mountains. So it's still Thailand--food stalls, 7/11, dogs, motorbikes, open trash cans, uniformed children, shouting "farang" or "hello" to me, and no clear sidewalks. I was offered many rides as I think people were very confused as to what I was doing in that area. I never knew what to say so I had to look up "take a walk" in Thai so people don't worry about me.
I found the veggie restaurant and it was ok food. It's hard to just point, not know what you'll get and then enjoy it. I think I'm getting a mushroom dish and then it ends up being who knows what. Mai ben rai (no problem).
I did a little shopping and my Thai bargaining skills came in handy. It's so funny when I start speaking in Thai, and then I say I speak a little, then the store owner turns to anyone who will listen and tells them I speak a little Thai. And then they all want to know what I do and they all talk about it to themselves. It's a spectacle for sure.
Dinner at a delicious Indian restaurant where I met Irina, an American from New York City who is living in Hong Kong but visiting Thailand. We ended up hanging out for the night and going back to the live music place I found last night (exact same act!) So she was headed out to Ayutthaya in the morning and after re-thinking my plans I decided why not. I always wondered how things like that happened but that was that. Change of plans and Ayutthaya here I come.
Day 4
Ayutthaya-old capital full of ruins
So I have never had any interested in visiting this historical city so my expectations were minimal--and rightly so. I was pretty unimpressed after seeing ruins in Guatemala and Mexico. These were ruins, that were not the impressive and not that well taken care of. They let people walk on them so what do you expect! And for someone who is not into Thai history the city didn't really give you a reason to be interested. There isn't much information about the ruins so you look, and then on to the next set of ruins. After a few hours I was ready to leave!
We rented bicycles which was an adventure in itself as Saturday traffic is busy! Obviously we made it out alive and so it didn't really matter. Ayutthaya has many, many small streams that weave throughout this area which is known as the old town. old town is almost like an island because it is cut off from the other land my this streams that really just make a moat. They all look man made though as the banks are perfectly curved, intersecting streams make 90 degree angles and the water is contained in neat, straight lines. Still pretty though. There are some pretty parks and the streams give the city more character than most Thai cities I have been in.
At night we went out to this Jazz Club and met some other tourists and some people who live in the city. I got to hear what it was like to teach in a high school there and I don't think I'd really like it. Seeing your students for 1 hour a week just doesn't seem like I could be an effective teacher no matter how much I tried. I would say there's no way to retain a language with such little practice.
Day 5
More ruins that were actually cool but it's just not my thing. Then bus back to Kanchan and say goodbye to Irina who is headed to the airport. A typical Thai incident on the way back:
I had to switch buses to get back to Kanchan and when I got the transfer point I guess I missed the bus to Kanchan. The woman was speaking in Thai and all I could understand was bus and already. So I figured I'd wait for the next one as it shouldn't have been the last one. Well, the urgency of these Thai women made me rethink that. Also, when people are helpling me I don't really feel like I cannot accept. Good thing I didn't need to use the bathroom because they rushed me onto some other bus that said the final desitination in Thai. No big deal, the worst case scenario is that I spend the night somewhere and take a bus to where I need to go in the morning. It's amazing how relaxed I felt getting on a bus, having no idea where it's headed! Within 10 min., our bus starts honking a lot, I hear "farang, farang" and I perk up to see who's obviously yelling at me. This same woman waves me to the front of the bus and I get off to see that they have waved down the bus to Kanchan and the drop me off and both buses get on their respectable ways. So typical.
Day 6
My "I can't believe I did that" day
It's totally not fair to be a white woman travelling along in Thailand-people always help. I take a bus to Sai Yok National Park and plan to stay overnight in a guesthouse along the river. Well, the map I had didn't seem very accurate. The road to go the park didn't seem to be there! I was able to figure out a place to stay though. Between three Thais and me we figure dout I needed a place to sleep. So they set up a tent for me outside of their house which was the ranger station. So I camped in the park right by the Sai Yok Noi Waterfall. Beautiful! Shortly after I checked into my tent hotel I figured out there was not much to do. I saw the waterfall, then hiked to this spectacular cave. I'm not a big spelunker but I didn't have much else to do so I started the hike to it. After 20 min. of walking the park ranger pulls up on his motorbike and motions for me to get on. He speaks no English so we ride to where the cave is located (it would have taken so long to walk there with the sun and the bugs!). We hike up to this HUGE mouth of a cave, he prepares the light and I step in. One thing about a language barrier is your end up doing things you aren't too sure about but you don't know how to say things like "is this safe?" or "i'm nervous", so then you just suck it up and do it. I also had to keep going to keep up with him and the light! This was the most serious spelunking I have ever done. Climbing all over, through cracks and crevices, having no idea what my hand it touching and trying not to think about it! It was amazing though. The main room of the cave as gigantic. I got to take some phtographs but I don't know how they turned out. I wish I had more time to take it all in as it was breathtaking. So neat and so natural. The floor was covered with clay so that my hands felt like I had just an art project on the potter's wheel. amazing! I found out later in the trip that they don't always let people go to the cave--unsure of why but I probably don't want to know. It was safe for me :)
After that I decided I would find this road that is supposed to lead to the National Park. It is supposedly across the street but then I find this is not true at all. But I ended up with a guide who took me to where I wanted to go. It was amazing. We went to waterfalls, caves, hot springs...everything and more of what I wanted to see. It's an amazing area and I thouroughly enjoyed all the sites.
Then back to my tent to sleep for the night. Luckily, I was so tired it quelled my fears of an animal or person attacking me in the night. I know, I can be a little dramatic! But I slept well. Went to sleep with the sound of crickets and the waterfall. beautiful.
Day 7
Sangkhlaburi (S-buri)
I decided to head out to Sangkhlaburi as this Burmese border town would give me a feel for what Burma is like without having to go there. I do want to go eventually but not with such a hostile military. The bus ride was unbelievable-wow! Mountains after mountains, climbing tot he top only to come all the way down. HUGE lake with fraft houses. Tiny villages with kids running around and playing. Dogs of course! It's like I'm in a new country because the topography is so different than KK. I've never lived in a pretty place and i think I've paid my dues and deserve somewhere beautiful next year!
S-buri is a small town on a lake over look mountains. Not too shabby! The town is maybe 5,000 people but I'm purely guessing. My guesthouse makes it even more amazing as I have a nice room with a balcony overlooking the lake and a small village across the lake. Again-wow! Sitting on my balcony as the wind blows in the evening rain through the mountains.
When I checked in I meet Nong, a Chinese-Thai with spectacular English! The best English of anyone I have met so far. Nong is awesome. I easily talked with him for an hour and he ended up giving me a personal tour of the Mon village across the lake. There is this long wooden bridge that connects S-Buri with the Mon village for trade purposes. I learned a lot by having Nong with me such as:
-traditional Mon houses look like traditional Thai houses except for one difference --> Mon build out a part of their house to put their Buddha whereas Thais put the Buddha on a stand in the house.
-I got to see all the trees where the fruit I eat comes from-mango,rambutan, papaya, banana,durian, jackfruit, coconut and starfruit. MMMM fresh fruit.
-He's an avid birdwatcher so I learned bird names in English and Thai but have now forgotten
-Illegal logging is happening near the border because the people who do it are the head of the government or police in their communities. There's no one to turn them into.
-Burmese curry is like Indian curry and Thai curry always adds coconut milk
-the Nagas headdress protects the Buddha from rain and all other things as he reaches enlightenment
-We are very near and active fault line and the 2 dams in the area could cause a major disaster if an earthquake occurred. Scary.
-He can't tell the difference between Thai, Mon, Karen and Burmese until he hears them speak.
The Mon village was not all that different from a Thai village. It's funny to see how a guidebook really builds it up to be so different when it's not. The kids were still playing futboll, motorbikes were still whizzing by, people still smilling and yelling hello, TV's still heard inside hosues and school uniforms were still present. Intersting just to see that and not to be touring the city expecting it to be different.

Day 8
No 7/11 and making friends
Huge news....this town DOES NOT have a 7/11. Repeat, does not have a 7/11. This is the first town I have been in that doesn't have 7/11. No worries, I still found yogurt and cereal for breakfast but it threw me through a loop!
It rained all morning which is odd! My plans for kayaking around the lake were ruined with the rain and then finding out they actually only have canoes. I know I have limits and one of them is canoeing on my own. It is such a Minnesota lake-except for the whole overlooking mountains thing! I ended up going swimming in it with this other girl from Minnesota. Ohhh Minnesotans. I was so excited to meet her! She's been living in Australia for the last 2 years and she's travelling her way back home to Minnesota.
At lunch, I met some people who are working in S-buri. it was good to get the scoop on what it's like to live there and work there. There seems to be a mix of English teachers and also NGO workers and volunteers working with Burmese refugees. Lots of things seems to be going on in this small, diverse town. I walked around with one of the guys I met and the highlight was this delicoius Tea Leaf Salad. It was one of the best meals ever!! It's made with all kinds of nuts, tea leaves and yummy herbs. I don't know but it was good. The atmosphere was great too....sitting at a wooden table in front of the family's home. Chickens, roosters, cats and a cow all nearby makign noise, chatting with John and eating deliciousness by the mouthful. I felt so content.
Day 9
Bye Bye Beauty
An early morning start to get back to Kanchan to pick up some bags before the check out time. I had continued to pay for a room there just to leave my bigger bag and have less hassle with it. Well, I didn't tell them I wasn't sleeping there for awhile but I didn't think it was a big deal. I hadn't spoken to any of the workers the whole time I was there. Well, they noticed. When I got back and checkout I had 20 questions directed at me! But in a very Thai way. They wanted to know where I was and what was going on. No big deal and we all laughed. Then they said, "I have somethign funny to tell you"...."we called the police". Laughter ensues and somehow my relaxed persona of the trip was still in full effect. Mai Ben Rai. We laughed, I asked if everythign was ok and they said yes and I was on my way. WHAT! i don't know what they called the police about but I used my passport today and I was interrogated about anything so it must be ok.
Back to BKK and a night to unwind before Mom and Dan come. Chris is hosteing three of us for the night so there's lots to catch up on as we are all in different locations-and one even just got to Thailand around 1am! It's funny to be completely on my own but then come right back and meet up with a group of people. I definitely got used to being on my own and it takes an adjustment to be around groups again! Good thing my adjustment period is with Mom and Dan. I still can't believe she's just sleeping upstairs. It's so normal to see her and 4 months really did just fly by.

So there you have it. Hopefully I'll get the pictures up when I am back in KK for a few days but I wanted to start the travel blogs before I had a month to catch up on.

Now you know I am safe and loving it!